georgian mother of pearl choker
An eighteenth century Georgian choker, formed as a series of mother of pearl panels, each embellished with a small flower composed of marcasite, additionally with marcasite lining each panel, set closed-back in silver, strung through silver tubes on the reverse of each panel, each end with a ribbon loop to be tied and worn high on the neck, 28 grams, length 10 in, circa 1780.
In Georgian-era jewelry (1714–1837), mother of pearl was valued for its soft iridescence and subtle beauty, often used to evoke elegance and sentimentality. While not as prominent as precious gemstones, it appeared in both fine and sentimental jewelry, especially in pieces like cameos, lockets, and buttons. Artisans appreciated its gentle sheen and natural luster, which complemented the delicate, hand-crafted aesthetic of Georgian design. Mother of pearl was sometimes used as a background for miniature portraits or symbolic engravings in mourning or keepsake jewelry, offering a luminous contrast to dark materials like jet or black enamel. Its organic origins and gentle glow made it a meaningful element in pieces intended to convey love, memory, and refinement, consistent with the emotional and ornate nature of Georgian adornment.