victorian gemstone girandole brooch
A mid-nineteenth century Victorian girandole brooch set with a colorful array of open-backed gemstones, framed in 14k gold, comprised of a central rose quartz and framed by aquamarine, emerald, topaz, amethyst, and pearls, styled with a scrolling repousse foliate pattern framing each gem, unmarked, length 2.5 in, width 1.5 in, circa 1860.
The late Victorian period, from 1880-1900, was a time of great change in society at large, as well as in the aesthetics of jewelry. Elaborate ostentation in both dress and adornment gave way to refined simplicity. With the discovery of the Comstock Lode in 1859, silver became widely available for use in jewelry. Styles favored light colored jewelry set in silver, and some progressive women did away with daytime jewelry altogether. Necklaces featured fringes and festoons, and wide chokers worn high on the neck also became popular. The advent of electric lighting late in the century further solidified the use of diamonds in jewelry, often set 'a jour,' or open-backed, to take advantage of the enhanced lighting available in the evening.